What Is Tetrahexyldecyl (THD) Ascorbate?
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a new form of Vitamin C and is the ingredient needed to make Vitamin C products much more stable, easier to use and more effective.
THD is powerful, stable, oil-based form of Vitamin C.
It is considered to be an analog molecule to L-ascorbic acid which is the form of vitamin C used by the body.
Many existing (and legacy) Vitamin C products rely on L-ascorbic acid only as their Vitamin C source ingredient which has been found to improve the appearance and condition of the skin. Other forms of Vitamin C have a much lower potency and don’t get converted by the body to L-ascorbic acid as readily.
Herein lies the problem, the benefits relating to this ingredient only apply if L-ascorbic acid gets to the end user in perfect condition - sadly, L-ascorbic acid is highly unstable and the chances of the product actually adding any benefit to the end user's skin care routine is slim - especially when considering the type of packaging, shelf life, UV exposure and other environmental factors.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a much more robust and stable ingredient.
Other issues with L-ascorbic acid products are that they often need to be acidic, unstable, and can only be formulated in a water base.
Unlike other vitamin C ingredients, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is fat-soluble, allowing us to formulate all ingredients within our Advanced Vitamin C Serum in a much more stable environment. Studies have shown Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate penetrates much better into the skin due to it's fatty acid composition and structure.
The benefits related to Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate compared to L-ascorbic acid are:
- Far more stable, less irritating and can be easily formulated into oil-based products.
- 50 times more effective than L-ascorbic Acid
- More effective at stimulating collagen synthesis
- Promotes skin brightness
- Reduces melanin synthesis by 80%
- Defends DNA against typical environmental ageing factors
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate also pairs well with other forms of vitamin C such as Magnesiun Ascorbyl Phosphate which we include in our Pro-Age Marine Advanced Vitamin C Serum, other mineral ascorbates, calcium ascorbates and ascorbyl palmitate. This powerhouse ingredient also works productively with Retinol.
Other Major Benefits associated to THD Ascorbate:
As an Antioxidant
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate functions as an antioxidant, which means it is capable of protecting the skin from free radicals generated from exposure to UV light, smoking, diet and pollution. THD helps neutralise free radicals and any possible imbalance by a process of electron transfer or donation. This is important because the harmful effects of free radicals can damage the DNA in your cells and cellular proteins such as collagen.
When collagen which naturally occurs in the skin is damaged, signs of premature ageing often appear. THD is able to protect collagen and thus is an ideal ingredient to include into our formulations at optimum dosages.
THD and other vitamin C ingredients within our formulations are also used to support the treatment of hyper-pigmentation - dark spots on the skin.
L-ascorbic acid interacts with copper ions at tyrosinase-active sites and inhibits the action of the enzyme tyrosinase, the main enzyme responsible for the conversion of tyrosine into melanin, decreasing melanin formation. THD together with our our marine extracts help to reduce the uneven distribution of melanin pigment and thus appearance of dark spots is reduced.
Supports Collagen Synthesis
THD also improves the elasticity of the skin and reduces wrinkles by supporting collagen synthesis. After the age of 20, a person produces about 1 percent less collagen in the skin each year. As a result, the skin becomes thinner and more fragile with age. Therefore, by increasing the production of collagen, THC helps to keep the skin strong, firm, and less susceptible to wrinkle formation.
Vitamin C acts as a cofactor or a helper molecule in the body’s natural collagen forming process.
Vitamin C has also been investigated for its involvement in the production of a molecule called pro-collagen m-RNA. This molecule signals the production of collagen and is responsible for signalling to the cell that collagen is needed.
We will write more on the benefits associated to this active ingredient in future articles. Kalōnology's Pro-Age Marine Advanced Vitamin C Serum is rich in Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Magnesuim Ascorbyl Phosphate.